London has many great attractions, but this one was never near the top of my list. This cable car across the Thames was originally promoted a means of transport, for commuters and for people wanting to reach the Millennium Dome (now The O2) in the Greenwich Peninsular from the Royal Docks area north of the Thames. Truly a ferry service across the river.
But it became yet another politician’s vanity project, another white elephant. It is operated by Transport for London as part of the city’s transit system, but the number of people actually using it for transport is negligible—most users are tourists, and out of season it’s pretty quiet.
I was born and bred in London, but back for a short spell in August 2012 as we’d managed to get tickets to the 2012 Olympics closing ceremony, and were taking that opportunity to see some different bits of the city. London during the Olympics was a joyous place
—there just seemed to be a friendly, positive vibe among everyone then. We took the Tube and a bus to North Greenwich, and poked our noses in The Dome for a couple of minutes just to say we’d done it. Then we paid our fare and climbed aboard the cable car.
All views look better on a clear sunny day, but this was one of those dreary, overcast downers that London endures all too often. The ride was fun, and despite the gloom we got good views up and down the Thames
—the Thames Barrage, the
Woolwich Ferry, Canary Wharf, and down onto London City Airport. A few miles to the north east we could see the Olympic Stadium where we had been the day before, with the Orbit Tower beside it (white elephants come in all shapes and sizes.) And of course we could look down onto the roof of the Dome.
We “landed” at the terminus on the Royals Docks side, and then took the short walk to the Royal Victoria station of the Docklands Light Railway, and headed back through the East End to explore more of London.
Sure, it was a fun little experience. Obviously an impractical means of commuting, but a great way to get some brief views from up high of the old docklands and scrap yards. But that’s not what the average tourist to London is looking for—better views are to be had a few miles further up the Thames.
An update from 2024
Twelve years seemed to have softened my cynicism. In September 2024 at the end of a winding two week rail journey that started in Geneva, we wanted to take the
Thames River Bus from North Greenwich. We deliberately made the extra effort to take the Tube and Docklands Light Railway to the Royal Victoria station so we could take the cable car again over to the Greenwich Peninsular.
But this time, not only had it changed its sponsorship name from The
Emirates Air Line to the
IFS Cloud Cable Car, it was also a beautiful sunny day. Also we crossed in the reverse direction from before, which meant we were facing the Dome all the way over, a more interesting view. Having just come from riding several cable cars in Switzerland it struck us how different this one was as it started and finished at the same altitude, but climbed steeply in a high arc over the Thames. We enjoyed the ride and the view, but wished it had been slower so we could have looked around a bit longer from the apogee.
Operating year-round
Crossing time 10 (5 during rush-hour) and distance 1,100
Operates from 7-9 to 9-11 (Seasonal variations—see official hours)
£6.00 (adult, 2024, payable by cash, Oyster card or contactless card). See website for other fares
Transport for London (TfL)
August 2012
September 2024