The ferry owners market the boat as the CTMA Traversier—an even more boring name than the CTMA Vacancier that brought us from Montreal. That's the big name on the side of the boat. But it's actually registered as the MS Madeleine and is a more typical ferry set-up than the Vacancier. We queued in multiple lanes at the Cap-aux-Meules terminal, drove into the stern of the ferry and were waved into position by the crew. Our reservation was checked before we joined the queue, but what was unusual was that we did not pay until we got on board and queued for the cashier.
We noticed a cruise ship approaching from out to sea, but as we got under way and left the harbour we could see that she had stopped about a kilometre out and was dropping anchor, and the crew were launching her tenders. The harbour at Cap-aux-Meules is not very large and easily filled by the three CTMA ferries.
The first part of our trip seemed like a tribute to Entry Island as our route curled around the north, east and south of the island. The west side of the island was comparatively flat with houses sprinkled sparingly all over. The east side rose fairly high, but was smoothly covered in bumps, and ended in some imposing cliffs. The distant shore of PEI was soon visible on the horizon, but the cliffs of Entry Island remained the main feature for much of our journey.
Once past the cape we tracked parallel to the coast, enjoying PEI's famous red cliffs—though having just come from the Magdalens we were rather used to them. Souris was first visible from the large potato and fish processing plants. The lighthouse then marked the end of the red cliffs and the start of the harbour. On the skyline the red sandstone St Mary's Church looked down over the town and harbour. The ferry reversed into its dock and we disembarked and headed to our B&B; just yards from the harbour entrance it was very convenient, but did not offer much more.
The town of Souris was quiet, but the people were very friendly to us; this is how it was for all of PEI. The name Sourisreally does come from the French for "mouse", due to several plagues of field mice in the early Acadian days.
This was my second visit to PEI, and my third different ferry crossing. In July 1989 we arrived at Wood Islands on the ferry from Caribou. A week later we left, crossing the Northumberland Strait on the ferry from Borden to Cape Tormentine, which is no longer in operation having been replaced by the Confederation Bridge.
INFO
External links to stories and photos
There are many stories on the web of this service being affected by storms or sea ice in winter.
Location
Ferry info
Crossing time 5 hours
Runs all year to a schedule
Reservations required
Runs all year to a schedule
Reservations required
The boats
Also known as the C.T.M.A. Traversier
The Vacancier sometimes replaces the Madeleine during the winter season.
Cost
Adults $52.25 ($33.75 low season), cars $97.40 ($68.50 low season)(2017-04)
Reservations required
Check website for up to date details
Reservations required
Check website for up to date details
Operator
Coopérative de Transport Maritime et Aérien (CTMA)
Website
When I used the ferry
September 2016
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